9 Unspoken Suit Rules Every Man should know
- A suit which has been perfectly tailored will hug your shoulders. The shoulder line on your suit must always be straight and should lie on the absolute edge of your shoulder. If the suit is tailored well it will show no wrinkles around the shoulder area when you have your arms by your side.
- Your jacket should always sit flat across your shoulders and especially your chest area. People often ask how to know if the jacket is pulling near your chest. Well the fabric of your jacket will make an X shape across the front when buttoned up. You should also cross your arms and check if the jacket is pulling or flaring out. Flaring jackets often make you look larger than you are.
- You should ensure that your suit jacket fits perfectly. To make sure this is so, you should slip a hand in between your chest and your buttoned jacket. The jacket must feel snug, but must allow the person wearing it to move freely.
- Double vents are the more modern options. The double vented jacket looks more flattering on people with larger figures, and it also gives ample space for the larger man to casually pull the hand in the pocket move.
- Button placement is vital to a well structured suit. The top button of a two button jacket should always fall at the navel or above it, if the jacket is a 3 button jacket, the middle button must be placed on the navel or slightly above it. Never below.
- The length is very important. When you have your arms at your sides casually, your jacket sleeve must never be below the wrist bone and must sit perfectly on the bone. A well tailored suit must allow you to cup your hands under the hem of your jacket, if you are not able to do so, then it is not an appropriate length for a suit jacket.
- Modern gentlemen are all dabbling in the double breasted suit. It should be noted that the double breasted suit does not necessarily suit everyone. The modern double breasted suit brings a sense of power and also shouts masculinity. If you plan on investing in a suit, the double breasted suit is a definite must buy.
- It is advisable to show some cuff. The cuffs of your shirt sleeves should be exposed at least 1 cm. your collar should also be visible from the back of the neck, and this gives the impression of a leaner and longer torso.
- The hem of your suit pant must sit perfectly at the top of your shoe. This is a modern approach to the suit, and the old school approach to this would be to allow your pant hem to cover bit of your laces. The pant should NEVER sag.
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